Gazing toward Sidetrack, the granddaddy of all Boystown bars, I sipped a margarita and willed my lawyer friends Shaun and Mary to hurry up and finish their meeting there with the Lesbian and Gay Bar Association of Chicago. My date and I were waiting for them across the street at D.S. Tequila Company, a new spot from the owners of Minibar (see chicagomag.com/bestbars), where the two of us had been installed at our highboy—complete with a miniature fake fire pit in the middle of the table—for 30 minutes. During that time, the bar’s menu had become a thing of fascination. “It’s like someone went to Kuma’s and Big Star and said, ‘Hey, let’s do both,’” my date mused as we debated the merits of tricked-out burgers and à la carte tacos.

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